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Surfing 2-3 foot waves 9 ft board
Surfing 2-3 foot waves 9 ft board













surfing 2-3 foot waves 9 ft board surfing 2-3 foot waves 9 ft board

I arch with my hands where I want them to be for popping up, so I'm ready. The moment the nose comes back out of the water, I pop up fast. I've definitely saved myself from pearling many times this way. The arching gets my weight off the front of the board. In addition to what Greg wrote, I find that when the nose starts going under as the wave is coming up under me, if I arch back I can often save it. Greg greg2935 Surfer Posts: 71 Likes: 0 post Liked in: 0 post Joined: Fri 7:51 pmīased on my short 7 months of experience. Whatever you do, make sure your arms are at the sides in a "chicken wing" stance, you can then at least adjust where you are on the board and stop pearling by sliding backward. Do not look down at the board, look where you want to go. Ive been told and read that you should do 3 more paddles when you feel the tail lift but Ive found Im slow enough to not need it. If you hesitate at this point you wont get it. You will feel the tail being raised and this is the time to pop up. When the wave is about 20-30m away paddle towards the beach fast, the wave should pick you up after about 5 paddles and about 2sec before it breaks. make sure you are on the right spot on your board and turn round, (keep an eye on incoming sets as you may get hammered by the odd larger wave breaking further out. paddle out and between sets, get to where the foam starts, this is where the next set is going to break, next paddle further out for about 5-10 paddles. If they are breaking in the same place, thats where you want to be, (make sure the reason the waves are breaking in the same place is not large rocks just under the surface of the water). What I have been doing (and this seems to work sometimes), sit on the beach and pick a breaking wave, see if the next set are breaking in the same place or a different place. You could be pearling for a few reasons, some of the common ones I've attempted are: too far forward, (is the front of the board under water when you paddle?), too far back and catching the wave as it folds over and getting thrown over the top, (how to look like a complete pillock in one easy lesson ), being on the right spot on the board but catching the wrong wave, (ones that dump really quickly so build up and are too steep, where reflected waves meet incoming waves and you get an upsurge of water and others), being on the right spot on the board but because it feels like you're falling, put your hands out in front and grab the rails, (did this a number of times having panicking surfers and swimmers trying to get out of the way as I sped past them and still feel like a pillock ), the problem here is once you have your hands out in front you cannot move so you either pull forward which makes you pearl or you hang on and hope. If the lip is breaking, you can sit up and hope! The mechanism is completely different in that you have to use gravity to accelerate down the wave, you can never paddle as fast as an incoming wave either. The mistake I made was thinking "green" waves are the same, they are not. Getting up on white water is easier because the wave is pushing you towards the shore. stay out in front of it.get up faster? Also, if I do get up and the lip is breaking on my board, what do I do?Īlso, I was looking at used short boards in the store, they felt so much lighter and easier to handle than my big old long board, I almost though I could ride it easier.but probably not a good idea yet?Īny advice is helpful! Thanks! SoCalSurfing Surfer Posts: 92 Likes: 0 post Liked in: 0 post Joined: Wed 1:23 amĪll I can give is one years experience and I'm sure there are others here that could give better advice! First off its probably not worth buying a shortboard until you can ride the longboard the longboard is much easier to catch waves on. What can I do to get up and ride that thing? Paddle faster. With the power behind them I usually perl, I even feel it's going to happen as I'm paddling. However, as small as a 4 foot wave looks from shore, I wipe out riding them. I have a 9ft board I take out and I can get up and surf on white wash and very small 2-3 foot waves with a face.

#Surfing 2 3 foot waves 9 ft board how to

New member here and a noob learning how to surf! From "themathteacher SW Pro" : "I would re-post in the longboard forum"















Surfing 2-3 foot waves 9 ft board